Been a long time since I rock and rolled, mmm-mmm

Hello poetry lovers. I haven’t blogged in a blue moon, but since there actually was one a couple of nights ago, it’s time!

So much is new… let’s start with the bike:


It’s a 23″ Carver Gnarvester. I pirated the 29+ wheels that Mike C built for my Pugsley and re-laced them to some hope hubs. Running Sram’s cheapest 11 speed (X0?). Cable discs of course, but not the old standby! Using TRP Spykes which beat the old BB7s hands down. With carbon fork, the bike comes in at about 29 pounds.

Turns out my surly frame bag fits passably. I’ve chucked the anything cages, they were too fragile. But I am trying out the Blackburn cargo cage on my down tube. My tent fits under there! (Except poles, which are in the frame bag.) The old Viscasha holds my clothing. The top tube bag is a new addition. It was made by Greg Wheelwright in my home town of boulder. Check out his stuff, it’s top-tier.

More to come…


Salsa Anything Cage

After receiving my Salsa Anything cages, I scratched my head for awhile trying to figure out how to mount them on the Pugsley’s fork. I was intending to clamp them on with hose clamps, but I discovered that on the right (curved) fork blade, I couldn’t find any orientation of the cage that would put all three of the mounting holes in contact with the fork blade. I didn’t want to stress the cage unnecessarily, so I posted a question on in the fatbike forum to solicit ideas. A forum user named JR Z came up with this one: screw an old rack strap (the flat kind, with a 90 degree twist on the end) into the canti boss and the lower rack mount. A picture is definitely worth 1000 words, so here’s the result of my first try:

Salsa Anything Cage on rack strap

Mounting the Salsa Anything Cage on a rack strap attached to the cantilever boss and the lower rack mounting hole.

This shows the cage after I drilled the rack strap but before I put the two additional bolts into it.  Subsequently, I inserted the bolts through the cage holes and screwed them into locknuts on the back side of the strap.

You have to bend the strap a bit at the top where it connects to the canti boss, and drill out the hole to be large enough. I haven’t done the curved fork blade yet, but I expect that all that will be different is the the top end of the strap will have to be bent a bit more.

The mount seems really solid and you don’t have to scratch up the paint on your fork. If you don’t have any rack straps lying around, you can order them from Universal Cycles.

A big shout out to JR Z! 🙂


This morning I was fiddling around with my seat angle for the umpteenth time.  And I thought (why did I tempt fate!), “I wonder how long the bolts on this 20 year old seatpost are going to hold ou– CRAP!” Something snapped.  LOUDLY.  Turns out that I ripped the threads right out of the aluminum dowel nut that the bolt threads into. They came out in one continuous coil. Now what do I do?  The Pugsley uses a 27.2mm post,  and I don’t have another one.

Luckily, I’m a huge fan of the Performance brand seat clamp.  I have them on all my bikes because they use a stainless steel barrel nut so you can really crank them down tight. And I happened to have a spare one. Lo and behold, the dowel nut fit into the seat post and I was able to make my morning commute on the Pugs as I have grown accustomed to of late.

I can’t say enough good things about these seat post clamps. The collar is alloy, whereas the bolt and nut are stainless steel. In addition to having threads that are almost impossible to strip, the dowel nut design allows the bolt to pivot as it is tightened, preventing it from binding. IMHO this clamp is superior to much more expensive clamps.  It’s just icing on the cake that it happens to be about the cheapest clamp you can buy! I highly recommend it if you have seat post slippage problems.